Nestled on the eastern coast of Miyagi Prefecture, Ishinomaki is a town that seamlessly blends history, culture, and natural beauty. Although it gained global attention due to the devastating 2011 tsunami, Ishinomaki has since transformed itself into a symbol of resilience and renewal. This vibrant town offers visitors a unique glimpse into the heart of Tohoku, with its rich heritage, artistic flair, and breathtaking landscapes.
DISCLAIMER: this blog has no intention to glamourise disaster related travel, but rather showing a lovely part of Japan with nice people that worked so hard to rebuild their lives and city. The area is safe, but earthquakes and tsunami are always possible in any part of Japan, so please follow the rules in case.
A Brief History of Ishinomaki
Ancient Times
Human settlement in the Ishinomaki region dates back to the Paleolithic period. Numerous shell mounds discovered in the city’s hills suggest that people were already living in groups there during the Jomon period.
During Emperor Nintoku’s reign, the Ishinomaki region, then known as Ishiminato, came to historical prominence. The Nihon Shoki records an Emishi rebellion in the 55th year of Nintoku’s era, where Tamichi was sent to quell the uprising but was defeated and killed at Idera Minato. In the Nara Period, conflicts between the Emishi and the Imperial Court led to the construction of Oshikasaku and Mononobe Castles. Shogun Sakanoue no Tamuramaro subjugated the Emishi, bringing Ishinomaki under Imperial Court control.
In the Kamakura Period, Saburo Kasai Kiyoshige, appointed as the first Oshu Sobugyo, led the Oshu Kasai clan to build Ishinomaki Castle. Later, the Kasai clan allied with the Date clan to extend its power over the region.
The Kyukitakami River from Nishinakaze Bridge. You can see Ishinomori Manga Museum on Nakaze Island.
The Feudal Era
The Kasai clan was abolished by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in the Oshu Punishment Campaign for not participating in the Siege of Odawara (1590). Their territories were taken over by Kimura Yoshikiyo. The Date clan, who had participated in the Odawara campaign and submitted to Hideyoshi, had their conquered territories confiscated. Date Masamune incited the Kasai-Osaki Rebellion but was discovered by Hideyoshi. Though Masamune escaped severe punishment, he was transferred to control almost the entire Miyagi Prefecture and southern Iwate Prefecture, making Ishinomaki part of the Date clan’s territory.
In 1613, Date Masamune, the first lord of the Sendai Domain, dispatched the Keicho Embassy to Europe with Hasekura Tsunenaga as the chief envoy to negotiate trade with the Spanish Empire. Masamune aimed to establish Pacific trade with Mexico, a Spanish colony, and built the San Juan Bautista ship near Ishinomaki. However, trade with Spain did not materialize.
Masamune ordered Magobei Kawamura to alter the course of the Kitakami River, which originally flowed into the Pacific Ocean near Ishinomaki, to develop new fields within his domain. During the Edo period, Ishinomaki Port became nationally renowned as a major trading port, facilitating rice transport from the Nanbu domain via the Kitakami River. Ishinomaki Port was one of the two major trading ports in the Ou region, alongside Sakata Port.
As a maritime base on the Pacific coast, Ishinomaki thrived in trade with Edo via Sengoku-bune ships, contributing significantly to the rice supply in Edo. Ishinomaki was the economic center of the Sendai domain, and the only place in the domain allowed to cast coins, a legacy reflected in the place name Isenba near Ishinomaki Station.
Ishinomaki Port was also the departure point for Tsudayu and his party, the first Japanese to circumnavigate the world. In 1793, Tsudayu and his party left Ishinomaki for Edo on the Wakamiya Maru but drifted to the Aleutian Islands. After about ten years in Russia, they completed a circumnavigation of the world in 1804, returning to Nagasaki and finally home in 1806.
Meiji Period
After the Sendai Domain’s defeat in the Boshin War in 1868, its territory was reduced from 620,000 koku to 280,000 koku. Oshika County, Monou County, and Motoyoshi County were separated from the Sendai Domain and came under the jurisdiction of the Takasaki Domain.
In July 1869, these three counties became Monou Prefecture under direct control of the Meiji government, and one month later, it was renamed Ishinomaki Prefecture. Ishinomaki Prefecture then merged into Toyome Prefecture.
In April 1871, the government initially decided to establish the Tosando Garrison in Ishinomaki, but changed the decision to locate the garrisons in Tokyo, Osaka, Kumamoto, and Sendai. The reorganization of prefectures continued, and Miyagi Prefecture’s present-day territory was finalized in 1876.
On April 1, 1889, Ishinomaki was established as a town system.
There is a manhole card rally throughout the city.
Taisho and Showa Periods
During the period of rapid economic growth, shipping in Ishinomaki was largely replaced by railroads and trucks, transforming the port’s function into a bustling fishing hub that could handle both coastal and deep-sea fishing. The construction of shipyards and the Ishinomaki Industrial Port spurred the development of secondary industries.
The area along the former mouth of the Kitakami River, known as “kawaminato” (riverside port), had been a thriving port town since the Edo period, even developing a red-light district. These industrial bases led to significant urbanization, turning Ishinomaki into a commercial hub for eastern Miyagi Prefecture with many workers in the tertiary industry, such as merchants.
However, deep-sea fishing often came with risks. Small fishing boats based in Ishinomaki Port were frequently deployed to various locations, but bad weather sometimes led to tragedies.
Ishinomaki’s metropolitan population continued to grow until the bubble economy, but signs of decline began in the 1970s. The city center’s Kawaminato area started to hollow out as the fish market moved to the coast in 1974 to accommodate larger and deeper fishing boats used for North Pacific fishing. Additionally, shoppers began to flock to larger stores in the suburbs, further impacting the city center.
Heisei Period
The construction of a levee along the lower reaches of the former Kitakami River was delayed due to residents’ concerns that it would obstruct the view of the river. This delay resulted in heavy damage to the area from the tsunami during the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011.
After the disaster, a new levee was built at a height that did not obstruct the view, with the upper part designed as a promenade. The area has since promoted urban development that harmonizes with the river and the sea. In 2017, Ishinomaki Genki Ichiba, a tourist and product facility, was opened, contributing to the town’s revitalization and showcasing its resilience and commitment to sustainable development.
View of part of Ishinomaki Minamihama Tsunami Reconstruction Memorial Park with the Museum and Kadonowaki Elementary School in the background.
Rebirth After the Tsunami
The Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami of 2011 left an indelible mark on Ishinomaki. The town suffered immense damage, but the spirit of its people remained unbroken. Over the past decade, Ishinomaki has undergone an impressive recovery, rebuilding its infrastructure and embracing a forward-looking approach to disaster prevention. Visitors today will find a town that honors its past while looking optimistically toward the future.
Must-Visit Attractions
Ishinomori Manga Museum
Dedicated to the legendary manga artist Shotaro Ishinomori, this museum is a paradise for manga enthusiasts. It showcases Ishinomori’s iconic works, including Cyborg 009 and Kamen Rider, through interactive exhibits and rare artifacts. The museum’s unique spaceship-like design is a nod to Ishinomori’s imaginative creations.
Former Ishinomaki Orthodox Church
The oldest surviving wooden church in Japan, located in Ishinomaki, is no longer used as a religious facility and is currently owned by the city. In November 1879, the Church of St. John the Apostle was completed in Ishinomaki Village, Oshika County, Miyagi Prefecture (now Sengoku Town, Ishinomaki City). After its service as a church, it was moved to its current location as a cultural asset of Ishinomaki City.
Tashirojima
A short ferry ride from Ishinomaki, Tashirojima is a haven for cat lovers. The island is home to more feline residents than humans, and visitors can enjoy strolling through picturesque villages where cats roam freely. Tashirojima also offers cozy cat-themed lodges for those who wish to extend their stay.
Hiyoriyama Park
For panoramic views of Ishinomaki and the surrounding coastline, head to Hiyoriyama Park. This scenic spot is particularly beautiful during cherry blossom season, when the park is adorned with delicate pink flowers.
Sant Juan Bautista Museum
This museum houses a replica of the Spanish galleon San Juan Bautista, which sailed from Japan to Mexico in the early 17th century. The detailed reconstruction offers insight into the historic voyages and the cultural exchange between Japan and the West during that era.
Ishinomaki Minamihama Tsunami Reconstruction Memorial Park
Ishinomaki Minamihama Tsunami Reconstruction Memorial Park is situated in the Minamihama district on the coast of Ishinomaki. Spanning an area of 388,000 square meters, the park was established on the site of a residential area that was devastated by the tsunami caused by the Great East Japan Earthquake. The park serves as a memorial to the victims and as a place of prayer for the reconstruction of the area.
Ishinomaki Municipal Kadonowaki Elementary School
Ishinomaki Municipal Kadonowaki Elementary School was a public elementary school located in Kadonowaki-cho. It gained recognition for its appropriate evacuation procedures during the Great East Japan Earthquake. Although the school was heavily damaged by the tsunami and fires, it is now open as a museum.
Culinary Delights
Ishinomaki is renowned for its fresh seafood, thanks to its prime location along the coast. Visitors can indulge in delectable sushi, sashimi, and other seafood dishes at local restaurants and markets. The town’s signature dish, Ishinomaki-style yakisoba, is a must-try for food enthusiasts looking to savor unique local flavors. The city is also famous for being the number one producer of cod roe in Japan and for its Momono Tea, among others.
Getting There
Ishinomaki is easily accessible from Sendai, the capital of Miyagi Prefecture. Visitors can take a JR Senseki Line train from Sendai Station to Ishinomaki Station, a journey that takes approximately 1 hour. The town’s welcoming atmosphere and diverse attractions make it an ideal destination for a day trip or a longer stay.
Ishinomaki’s blend of historical charm, cultural vibrancy, and natural beauty makes it a captivating destination in Miyagi Prefecture. Whether you’re exploring its manga heritage, relaxing on Cat Island, or savoring fresh seafood, Ishinomaki promises an enriching and memorable experience. This resilient town stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of its people and the timeless allure of Tohoku.
