Odawara is a coastal city in Kanagawa Prefecture, situated conveniently between Tokyo and the famous hot spring region of Hakone. Often overlooked in favor of its more famous neighbors, Odawara boasts its own charm, blending historical significance, scenic nature spots, and serene coastal views. For those looking for a quick escape from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, Odawara offers the perfect one- or two-day getaway.
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The History of Odawara
Located in the southwestern part of the Kanto region, Odawara flourished as a prominent castle town under the later Hojo Clan during the Sengoku period. It is also famously associated with the Fuuma Ninja, who are believed to have supported the Hojo clan’s success behind the scenes for five generations, from Hojo Soun to Hojo Ujinao.
In the Edo period, Odawara continued to thrive as the castle town of the Odawara Domain and as Odawara-juku, a vital post town on the Tokaido road. Positioned just east of the Hakone Pass, it remains a key gateway for tourism in the Hakone area.
Until April 17, 1876, Odawara served as the capital of Ashigara Prefecture, which encompassed modern-day western Kanagawa Prefecture and the Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture. Today, it is the central city of the Seisho region.
During Japan’s economic bubble period, Odawara grew as a commuter town for Tokyo. However, after the bubble burst and with fewer long-distance commuters returning to the city center, the population began to decline. Once exceeding 200,000 residents, the population has now fallen below that threshold, prompting the implementation of policies aimed at stabilizing numbers, such as a subsidy system for Shinkansen commuter passes. Redevelopment around station areas, as well as housing and urban development in the suburbs, is gradually progressing.
Odawara Castle standing proud. The castle is now a museum where you can discover the history of Odawara.
Road to Become a Castle Town
From the late Heian period to the Kamakura period, Saeki Tsunehisa, a descendant of Fujiwara no Hidesato—famous for defeating Taira no Masakado—moved to Hadano around 1030 and adopted the name Hatano. Over time, various branches of the clan emerged and expanded their influence in northwestern Sagami. This area now encompasses Hadano City, Matsuda Town, Yamakita Town in Ashigarakami County, Minamiashigara City, and parts of Odawara. Hatano Castle served as the clan’s main residence, and there is a theory that Odawara may have been developed as a subsidiary castle of Tahara, where Hatano Castle was located.
In the final year of the Heian period (1180), the Battle of Ishibashiyama was fought between Minamoto no Yoritomo, who had raised an army on Hirugakojima Island in Izu Province, and Oba Kagechika, a supporter of the Taira clan.
The Hojo Clan Rise and Fall
During the Sengoku period, Hojo Soun, who claimed descent from the Ise Heishi lineage, seized control of Odawara Castle. His descendants, known as the later Hojo clan, rose to power throughout the Kanto region with Odawara Castle as their base. They overthrew the existing power structure of the region, which had been dominated by influential clans such as the Ashikaga clan of the Kamakura shogunate, the Uesugi clan of Hitachi Province, and the Utsunomiya clan, governors of Shimotsuke Province.
These clans, known collectively as the Eight Houses of the Kanto Region, saw their influence diminished or eradicated by the later Hojo. Notably, the Hojo clan drove the Oyama clan, guardians of Shimotsuke Province, to extinction.
Under Hojo rule, Odawara and other castle towns under their control flourished and saw significant development during the Sengoku period. However, in 1590 Odawara lost its prominence when Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s conquest led to the fall of the Hojo clan, marking the end of their rule. With the downfall of the Hojo, Tokugawa Ieyasu moved to Edo and took control of the Kanto region. The Okubo clan, a subordinate of Ieyasu, was then installed in Odawara.
Odawara also served as the base of Odawara Tarozaemon, who governed the discriminated communities across the Kanto region. He held exclusive rights over the leather industry until the fall of the later Hojo clan.
During the Edo period, Odawara Domain was established as a feudal domain along the Tokaido highway, a key strategic point in eastern Japan. Odawara became the domain’s castle town and, from 1686, was governed by the Okubo clan for successive generations.
The town’s location along the Tokaido route made it home to Odawara-juku, the largest of the 53 post stations, serving travelers before they crossed the Hakone mountains.
Modern Times
In modern times, Odawara underwent significant changes, starting with the abolition of feudal domains and becoming part of Kanagawa Prefecture after a series of mergers and re-divisions. The construction of railway lines, including the Tokaido Main Line and Odakyu Electric Railway, enhanced its connectivity, although the city faced challenges, such as severe damage from the Great Kanto Earthquake and the economic turmoil caused by the closure of the Odawara Jitsugyo Bank. Odawara also experienced destruction during World War II, with one of the final air raids targeting the city.
Post-war reconstruction included the establishment of new infrastructure, such as the Tokaido Shinkansen, which greatly reduced travel times to Tokyo. However, Odawara has also faced natural disasters and local conflicts, such as a major fire in 1951 and opposition to water supply projects. In the 21st century, discussions of merging with Minamiashigara City arose, though they were eventually abandoned. In 2022, parts of Odawara’s downtown were designated special anti-gang areas to curb organized crime activity.
Odawara Blueway Bridge was built to secure the shipping routes of the ships passing under the bridge.
A Glimpse into Odawara’s Main Attractions
Once you arrive in Odawara, you’ll find plenty of options for exploration. Here’s a brief introduction to some of the city’s must-see spots:
Odawara Castle
One of the city’s most iconic landmarks, Odawara Castle was originally constructed in the 15th century. It played a critical role in Japan’s feudal period, serving as a stronghold for the Hojo clan during the turbulent Sengoku (warring states) period. The castle’s current reconstruction allows visitors to explore a museum showcasing samurai history, armor, and artifacts, while the surrounding grounds offer beautiful gardens, especially in cherry blossom season.
Odawara Flower Garden
For nature lovers, the Odawara Flower Garden is a tranquil escape just outside the city center. This expansive park features beautifully landscaped gardens, showcasing seasonal flowers and a stunning tropical greenhouse. Visitors can stroll through various gardens designed to highlight different floral themes, such as roses and plum trees, making it a perfect spot for a relaxing afternoon.
Hayakawa Kannon
Nestled near the coastal area, Hayakawa Kannon is a serene Buddhist temple dedicated to the Kannon, the goddess of mercy. It is known for its peaceful atmosphere, surrounded by trees and offering a great view of the nearby Hayakawa River. The temple’s tranquil environment makes it ideal for those seeking a quiet retreat from the city’s busier attractions.
Shrines and Temples
Odawara is home to several shrines and temples that reflect the spiritual depth of the region. Each shrine and temple in Odawara has its own unique history, making them well worth visiting for those interested in Japan’s spiritual culture.
Odawara’s Coastline
Odawara is a seaside city, and its coastline offers picturesque views of the Pacific Ocean. A walk along the beach or the small fishing ports like Hayakawa provides a peaceful way to end your day. The fresh sea breeze and local seafood restaurants will make you appreciate the city’s coastal charm.
Kamaboko – A Local Culinary Delight
One of Odawara’s most famous local products is kamaboko, a type of fish cake made from pureed white fish. This delicacy has been produced in Odawara for centuries and is beloved across Japan for its firm texture and subtle flavor. You can find kamaboko sold in various shapes and sizes, often adorned with beautiful designs. Visitors can stop by the Suzuhiro Kamaboko Village to learn about its traditional production process, sample freshly made kamaboko, and even try their hand at making their own! It’s a must-try for any food lover visiting Odawara.
Getting to Odawara from Tokyo
Odawara is incredibly accessible from Tokyo, making it a popular day trip destination. Here are some easy ways to get there:
- By shinkansen: The fastest way to reach Odawara is by taking the Tokaido Shinkansen from Tokyo or Shinagawa stations. The journey takes only about 30 minutes, offering convenience and speed, though it’s a pricier option.
- By local train (JR Tokaido Line): For a more affordable route, take the JR Tokaido Line from Tokyo Station or Shinagawa Station. The ride takes around 70-90 minutes, providing scenic views of the coastline and cityscape.
- By Odakyu Romancecar: The Odakyu Line’s limited express “Romancecar” is a comfortable and scenic way to travel, especially for those leaving from Shinjuku. This train reaches Odawara in about 80 minutes and offers panoramic windows for a relaxing ride.
- By Chiyoda line and Odakyu line: For travelers coming from the northern or central parts of Tokyo, the Tokyo Metro Chiyoda line connects directly with the Odakyu Line at Yoyogi-Uehara and Shinjuku. From there, you can transfer to the Odakyu line bound for Odawara. This route takes about 90 minutes and is a more economical option for those who prefer to avoid Shinkansen and Romancecar fares.
Odawara may not be as famous as Hakone or Kamakura, but its rich history, scenic spots, and coastal beauty make it a hidden gem worth exploring. Whether you’re a history buff, a nature lover, or simply looking for a serene getaway from Tokyo, Odawara has something to offer for everyone. Stay tuned for more in-depth articles exploring each of these fascinating locations in detail.
