Odawara Castle, an iconic symbol of Odawara, stands as a testament to Japan’s rich feudal history. Situated just a short walk from Odawara Station, the castle is not only a landmark of the city but also a reminder of its significance during Japan’s warring states period. With its beautiful architecture, expansive grounds, and panoramic views of the surrounding area, Odawara Castle offers visitors a journey through time to the days of samurai and powerful clans.
The Rise of the Hojo Clan
It is believed that Odawara Castle was originally the residence of Kobayakawa Tohei, a member of the powerful Tohi clan in Sagami Province during the late Heian period. According to the Tales of Hatsuki, the castle was later given to Sano Genzaemon by Hojo Tokiyori.
During the Uesugi Zenshū Rebellion in 1416, the Doi clan, who supported Uesugi, were ousted, and the Omori clan from Suruga Province seized control, expanding their influence into Sagami and Izu Provinces. In 1495, Ise Moritoki, later known as Hojo Soun, took Odawara Castle from Omori Fujiyori, significantly expanding the structure. However, records suggest that the Omori clan may have continued to rule the castle until around 1501, when Soun’s son, Hojo Ujitsuna, firmly established Odawara as the Hojo family’s base.
Odawara Castle became the political center of southern Kanto under the Hojo clan, serving five generations of Hojo daimyo, including Hojo Ujimasa and his son, Ujinao. The Hojo family expanded the castle and transformed Odawara into a formidable fortress. By the mid-16th century, the castle had become nearly impregnable, surrounded by extensive moats and walls, making it the headquarters of the Hojo’s growing dominion. Under the rule of Hojo Ujiyasu, Odawara Castle reached its peak of power. The Hojo clan’s strategic alliances and military prowess allowed them to dominate much of the Kanto region.
The castle endured multiple sieges, including the 1561 attack by Uesugi Kenshin, which reportedly involved 113,000 soldiers surrounding the castle. Although records claim a month-long siege, it likely lasted about 10 days. In 1569, Takeda Shingen launched a military demonstration at the castle, but it was not a full-scale invasion, and the Hojo eventually restored their alliance with the Takeda clan.
The later Hojo undertook two major reconstructions of Odawara Castle. The first occurred after Hojo Soun took control, possibly following an earthquake that damaged the region, though it is debated whether the Omori clan might have initiated the repairs. The second reconstruction took place between 1566 and 1572, in preparation for the ongoing invasions by the Uesugi and Takeda clans. Due to the strategic importance of Odawara Castle, particularly in controlling the contested Suruga region, the Hojo chose it as their base despite having conquered much of the Kanto region.
The castle’s defenses were put to the test during the Siege of Odawara in 1590, when Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of Japan’s great unifiers, launched an attack to consolidate power. Despite a fierce defense, the Hojo clan eventually surrendered, marking the end of their reign and the beginning of the Edo period under Tokugawa Ieyasu.
Odawara Castle and the Hojo Clan played an important role in feudal Japan.
The Siege of Odawara
The siege of Odawara in 1590 was a pivotal moment in Japanese history, marking the conclusion of the Sengoku period and the dawn of an era of peace and stability under the Tokugawa Shogunate. Lasting nearly three months, this siege involved some of the most formidable military leaders of the time.
The Hojo had been significant players in Japanese politics for about a century, successfully repelling numerous attacks on the castle. However, by the late 16th century, the clan’s influence began to wane as the Tokugawa clan, led by Tokugawa Ieyasu, gained strength and formed alliances with other regional lords to challenge the Hojo. In 1590, Toyotomi Hideyoshi initiated a massive campaign against the Hojo with the objective of capturing Odawara Castle and solidifying his supremacy over Japan.
Toyotomi’s forces numbered over 200,000 soldiers, including some of Japan’s most skilled warriors. The defenders of Odawara Castle were well-equipped with supplies of food and water, preparing them for the impending siege. The initial phase involved a blockade, with Hideyoshi’s troops encircling the fortress and severing all supply lines. The defenders frequently launched sorties to break through the enemy lines and procure supplies, resulting in a stalemate with heavy casualties on both sides.
In an effort to shift the balance, Toyotomi ordered the construction of extensive earthworks and trenches around the castle. These fortifications were designed to shield his soldiers from attacks while bringing his artillery closer to the castle walls. The defenders attempted to counterattack and dismantle the enemy’s advancements, but they were outnumbered and outgunned, leading to largely unsuccessful efforts.
The turning point of the siege came when Hideyoshi commanded a massive assault on the castle’s heavily fortified main gate. His forces managed to breach the walls and penetrate the castle grounds. Despite fierce resistance, the defenders, overwhelmed, retreated to the inner keep for a final stand.
Approximately three months into the siege, the unexpected emergence of Ishigakiyama Ichiya Castle on a nearby mountaintop created a psychological impact that compelled the remaining defenders to surrender. Hojo Ujimasa and Ujiteru ultimately committed suicide at the siege’s conclusion.
The Edo Period and Beyond
Following the fall of the Hojo, Odawara Castle came under the control of the Tokugawa shogunate, which maintained it as a crucial defensive post along the Tokaido road. However, with the arrival of the Meiji Restoration in 1868 and the subsequent modernization of Japan, the castle, like many others, was dismantled as part of the country’s shift away from its feudal past.
The current castle structure is a post-war reconstruction that was completed in 1960, designed to replicate the original design from the Edo period. In recent years, the castle has undergone several restorations, and today it serves as a museum, providing visitors with a window into the rich history of Odawara and the samurai who once called it home.
The castle is surrounded by a moat with large koi that flows beneath a red bridge.
Structure of Odawara Castle
The area around Odawara Castle underwent significant renovation during the early modern period, particularly under Okubo Tadayo and Inaba Masakatsu. This transformation led to the creation of the current Odawara Castle Site Park and its surroundings. The castle itself is notable for its stone walls, a rarity in the Kanto region, which typically features castles with earthen walls. This distinction underscores the strategic significance of Odawara Castle as the gateway to the Kanto region. The major renovations began in 1632, resulting in the fully stone-walled structure we see today.
The main castle was centrally located, with Ninomaru and Sanmaru positioned to the east, and more kuruwa (walls) to the south and north providing a defensive perimeter on all sides. Four smaller kuruwa were also established serving as horse enclosures. Odawara Castle is said to have featured 13 gates and 8 turrets, with three coastal batteries added in the late Edo period.
Most buildings were demolished during the early Meiji period, but restoration efforts are ongoing for Honmaru, Ninomaru, and few kuruwa. Takabe Kuruwa now hosts a library and local culture museum, while Komine Kuruwa is home to Hotoku Ninomiya Shrine, and Byobuiwa Kuruwa has been transformed into an amusement park. Mikuramai Kuruwa was initially converted into a baseball field and later used as a parking lot but is currently undergoing restoration. Benzaiten Kuruwa has become a residential area adjacent to the castle park and is also where Asahigaoka High School is located.
Additionally, on city-owned land next to Odawara Castle Park, the Odawara Hakone Chamber of Commerce and Industry previously operated a building constructed in 1971. This was done with permission from the Agency for Cultural Affairs, as the area was historically significant. However, since reconstructing the old chamber of commerce is challenging, the Odawara Hakone Chamber of Commerce and Industry moved to a new office in Honmachi, Odawara City, in February 2021, expressing intentions to donate the old building to the city.
Yawatayama Fort
Yawatayama Fort served as a secondary castle situated on the plains. It is believed that Hojo Ujimasa established his camp here during the Battle of Odawara and is also thought to be the original Odawara Castle from the time of the Omori clan, although other theories exist. The fort features a linked structure comprising few kuruwa, providing robust defenses. Currently, much of this area has been developed into residential land.
The view from the top floor of the castle.
Exploring Odawara Castle Today
The Main Keep
The centerpiece of the castle complex is the main keep, a towering structure offering a stunning view of Odawara city, Sagami Bay, and the surrounding mountains. Inside the keep, you’ll find a museum dedicated to the history of Odawara and the Hojo clan. Exhibits include samurai armor, weapons, historical documents, and scale models that help illustrate what life was like during the castle’s peak.
Climbing to the top of the keep provides visitors with panoramic views of the city and coastline, making it an excellent spot for photography. The sense of standing where the samurai once stood, defending their fortress, is a highlight of any visit.
Castle Grounds and Gardens
The castle grounds are equally impressive, featuring lush gardens, moats, and walking paths that allow visitors to explore the various defensive structures that once surrounded the castle. The stone walls and gates give a sense of the castle’s former strength, and the peaceful surroundings make it a great place to relax after visiting the main keep.
In spring, the castle grounds come alive with cherry blossoms, making it a popular spot for hanami. The castle’s beauty, paired with the blooming trees, creates a picturesque setting that draws visitors from around Japan.
Samurai Experience and Events
Odawara Castle offers several interactive experiences for visitors looking to dive deeper into Japan’s samurai culture. You can try on samurai armor or traditional kimonos, participate in archery, or attend one of the many historical reenactments held throughout the year. These events are family-friendly and provide a fun way to connect with the castle’s rich heritage.
One of the most popular events is the annual Hojo Godai Matsuri (Hojo Five Generations Festival), which takes place in early May. This festival celebrates the legacy of the Hojo clan with parades, performances, and samurai reenactments, drawing thousands of visitors to the city.
Practical Information
Odawara Castle is open daily from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM, with the last entry at 4:30 PM. Entry to the castle and museum costs 510 yen for adults and 200 yen for children. The castle is just a 10-minute walk from Odawara Station, making it easily accessible from both Tokyo and other nearby cities.
Odawara Castle’s Role in Modern Odawara
Though the castle no longer serves a defensive purpose, it remains a central figure in the cultural and historical identity of Odawara. Beyond the historical exhibitions and stunning views, the castle serves as a reminder of the city’s important role in Japan’s feudal history. Its blend of history, culture, and scenic beauty makes it a must-visit destination for those traveling to the area.
Whether you’re a history enthusiast eager to learn about the Hojo clan’s rise to power or a traveler seeking beautiful landscapes and cultural experiences, Odawara Castle is a must-see destination.
