Nestled within the historical context of Odawara, the Hayakawa area is a captivating blend of natural beauty, rich history, and cultural significance. Odawara’s Hayakawa district is a hidden treasure, offering a mix of coastal beauty, fishing heritage, and spiritual serenity. For visitors looking to experience the quieter side of Odawara, away from the city’s historical landmarks, Hayakawa Port and Hayakawa Kannon provide a peaceful retreat where nature, local culture, and spirituality intertwine.
Historical Background
Hayakawa’s history can be traced back to the feudal era, where its strategic position near the Hayakawa River made it an essential location for various clans, particularly the powerful Hojo clan. The river served as a natural defense mechanism and a resourceful route for transportation, linking the area to other vital regions.
The proximity of Hayakawa to Odawara Castle enhances its historical significance. The castle was a pivotal stronghold during the Sengoku period, and Hayakawa played a crucial role in supporting its defenses. The surrounding landscapes provided essential resources and served as a point of communication for the castle’s inhabitants.
Odawara Harbor, or Hayakawa Fishing Port, now serves as the main fishing hub for the region, where local fishermen bring in their daily catch from the abundant Pacific Ocean. Fresh fish is delivered each morning to restaurants, hotels, and shops throughout the area.
Odawara Blueway Bridge was built to secure the shipping routes of the ships passing under the bridge.
The Charm of a Working Port
Hayakawa Port is not just a scenic spot; it is a working port where fishing boats dock and unload their daily catches. Visitors strolling along the pier can watch the fishermen in action, repairing nets or preparing their boats for the next voyage. This hands-on experience gives a glimpse into the rhythm of life in a traditional fishing community, making it a unique contrast to Odawara’s more famous tourist attractions.
Fresh fish lovers are in for a treat. The seafood caught at Hayakawa is known for its high quality, and several nearby restaurants specialize in serving freshly caught fare. From sushi and sashimi to grilled fish, the local cuisine reflects the bounty of the nearby waters.
Each morning before dawn, the distinctive white fishing boats of Odawara set sail into the Pacific, checking their nets for the day’s catch. The islands of Japan have long had a close relationship with the sea, and fish has been a staple in Japanese cuisine for centuries. While many associate Japan with sushi, there is a vast array of other fish dishes to explore. While Tsukiji is a renowned attraction, Odawara offers a more intimate experience, allowing you to connect directly with the fishermen, the catch, and the market’s lively atmosphere.
A Morning Market Adventure
Visiting the morning market is an experience like no other. As it is primarily a working environment, it’s important to be respectful and mindful of your surroundings. The market staff are friendly and welcoming, though they can be quite busy. Offloading of the fish typically begins around 6:00 AM, followed by the sorting process. Visitors can stroll around to observe various fish in their respective bins, which are then inspected and bid on by fishmongers, easily recognized by their numbered hats. While the bidding process is fascinating, it can be challenging to comprehend, as it often involves specialized terminology to keep prices discreet.
The statue of goddess Kannon watching over Hayakawa.
Tozen-in Gyoran Daikannon: A Serene Sanctuary Overlooking Odawara
Just a five-minute walk from Hayakawa Station along some tranquil backstreets leads you to Tozen-in Gyoran Daikannon. As you approach, you’ll be greeted by the impressive sight of the giant white Kannon, her head peeking out from behind the main hall of a charming, if somewhat unassuming, temple. Climb a set of steps on the side of the temple that leads up to a cemetery, where the magnificent Kannon statue resides.
Standing at just over half the height of the Kannon in Ofuna, this statue is nonetheless imbued with the same mystical powers. Completed in 1982 after three years of construction, it is said to ward off evil, ensure the safety of your family, and fulfill your wishes.
With the Blue Way Bridge and Sagami Bay providing a picturesque backdrop, the white Kannon stands beautifully overlooking the city of Odawara. You can even catch a glimpse of the Shinkansen passing behind the statue—though you’ll hear it first, as it adds a unique contrast to the serene landscape.
Getting to Odawara Harbor
At Odawara Station, take the JR Tokaido Line for Atami. The harbor is just two minutes away at Hayakawa Station. From there, it’s a pleasant five-minute walk to the harbor, where the morning fish market and dining options await. Alternatively, you can enjoy a scenic 20-minute walk from Odawara Station, taking in sights like Odawara Castle and local neighborhoods along the way. For those looking to explore further, bike rentals are available on the castle grounds.
Hayakawa in Odawara is a hidden gem that offers a unique glimpse into Japan’s rich history and stunning natural beauty. With its historical significance, cultural landmarks, and recreational opportunities, it is a must-visit destination for anyone looking to explore the charms of Odawara. Whether you’re wandering along the Hayakawa River or discovering the area’s historical treasures, Hayakawa is sure to leave a lasting impression.
