Nestled in the heart of Nagano Prefecture, Matsumoto Castle stands as one of Japan’s most beautiful and well-preserved original castles. With its striking black walls, elegant wooden interiors, and breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains, Matsumoto Castle offers a glimpse into Japan’s feudal past while remaining a must-visit destination for history lovers and travelers alike.
Popularization of the ‘Crow Castle’ Nickname
Matsumoto Castle is often called Karasu-jo, or Crow Castle, due to its distinctive black exterior. Regarding this nickname, the Matsumoto Castle Management Office has stated that this term is incorrect, as it does not appear in historical documents. However, the Heibonsha place-name dictionary “Nihon Rekishi Chimei Taikei” mentions that it is commonly called “Karasu Castle”. Similarly, the study guide “Nagano no Chiri Monogatari” uses the spelling “Karasu Castle”.
A 2020 research paper on the name “Karasujo” was published in the journal of the Nagano Folklore Society. The study found that people born after the 1960s in Matsumoto were familiar with the name “Karasu Castle”, although the origin was not clear. Literature research revealed that the earliest recorded mention of the name is from the book Shinshu History and Travel – People and Historical Sites (1966), where it states, “The current Matsumoto Castle is also called Crow Castle because of its black color”. It is believed that the name may have gained popularity in 1966 when Matsumoto and Himeji became sister cities, with tourism officials using it to contrast Matsumoto Castle with Himeji Castle, also known as “White Egret Castle”. The pronunciation of “Karasujo” may also reference Okayama Castle, which is also known as “Crow Castle”.
Matsumoto Castle and the famous view with the red bridge.
Exploring the History of Matsumoto Castle
Once called Fukashi Castle, its origins are said to trace back to the Sengoku period, when the Ogasawara clan built it as a subsidiary castle. It played a significant role during the Takeda clan’s expansion into Shinano. In 1550, the Takeda clan captured Fukashi Castle, replacing its lord, and expanded their control over the region. After the fall of the Takeda clan in the late 1500s, the castle changed hands multiple times, eventually being handed over to the Tokugawa clan.
During the early Edo period, the castle underwent significant development, particularly under the leadership of Ishikawa Kazumasa and his son Yasunaga, who reinforced the castle’s defenses. However, after internal conflicts, the Ogasawara family returned to the castle. The Matsumoto Domain was later established, with Matsudaira Yasunaga and the Mizuno family governing from the castle.
A notable historical event occurred in 1686 when the Jokyo Rebellion broke out due to poor harvests and oppressive taxes. Over 10,000 farmers surrounded the castle, and despite a brief effort to address their concerns, many were executed the following year.
In 1727, after the Honmaru Palace burned down, government activities were moved to the Ninomaru, marking a shift in the castle’s role in local administration.
Through Modern Time Challenges
After the Meiji Period, Matsumoto Castle faced significant challenges. In 1872, the castle tower was put up for auction and was at risk of demolition. However, local leaders successfully raised funds to save it, initially securing a delay in the demolition, then using the proceeds from a local exposition to purchase the tower and preserve it.
In 1876, a fire completely destroyed the Ninomaru Palace, which had been serving as the Chikuma Prefectural Office. This event occurred amidst a dispute about the relocation of the prefectural office and the merger with Nagano Prefecture. The site was later repurposed, and in 1878, the Matsumoto District Court was built there.
By the 1890s, concerns arose about the leaning castle tower, prompting the creation of the Matsumoto Castle Tower Preservation Society. They successfully gathered donations to fund repairs, leading to the “Great Meiji Repair” from 1903 to 1913.
In 1930, Matsumoto Castle was designated a national historic site. Several years later, in 1936, the castle tower and its various structures, including the Inui Small Castle Tower and several yagura (turrets), were designated as national treasures. These designations were reaffirmed in 1952 under the Cultural Properties Protection Law.
In 1946, the Allies inspected the castle and recommended demolition investigations. This led to the “Showa Great Repair” project, a national treasure preservation effort, carried out between 1950 and 1955.
In 1978, the Matsumoto District Court was relocated, and the former courthouse building was repurposed as the Japan Judicial Museum. Later, several restoration projects took place, including the restoration of key gates in 1990 and 1999.
In 2000, the surrounding area around Matsumoto Castle was selected as one of the 100 Best Urban Landscapes. The Inui Small Castle Tower was opened to the public in 2001, and in 2006, the castle was named one of Japan’s 100 Famous Castles.
The castle faced some damage during the 2011 Nagano Prefecture Chubu Earthquake, with cracks appearing in the castle tower and shifts in the stone wall at the Ume-mon Gate, temporarily closing off access. In 2014, the Taikomon Gate was opened for special visits, and for the first time, graffiti was discovered, highlighting the ongoing challenges of maintaining the castle’s integrity.
You can take pictures with Arupu-chan, Matsumoto’s mascot, dressed as a samurai.
A Castle of Contrast: The Beauty of Black and White
The castle tower is one of the few surviving structures built between the end of the Azuchi-Momoyama period and the beginning of the Edo period. It is designated as a national treasure, and the castle ruins are recognized as a national historic site. It is one of only five castles in Japan with a national treasure tower, alongside Himeji Castle, Inuyama Castle, Hikone Castle, and Matsue Castle.
Matsumoto Castle is often called Karasu-jō, or Crow Castle, due to its distinctive black exterior. This dark facade sets it apart from Japan’s more common white-walled castles, like Himeji Castle. The contrast between the black walls and the bright blue sky—or, during cherry blossom season, the delicate pink petals—makes for an especially striking view.
Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the black color had a practical purpose. During the Sengoku period, when battles were frequent, the dark walls helped to camouflage the castle at night, making it harder for enemies to spot. Today, this dark elegance gives Matsumoto Castle a unique, almost mystical presence.
We visited at the beginning of November, when the pampa grass was at its best.
A Rare Flatland Castle
Unlike many famous castles built on mountains or hills for natural defense, Matsumoto Castle is a hirajiro, or flatland castle. This means that rather than relying on steep terrain, it had to be fortified with moats, stone walls, and an intricate defensive layout to protect against invaders.
One of its key defensive features is the triple moat system, which originally surrounded the castle. The Honmaru, Ninomaru, and Sannomaru of Matsumoto Castle are all leveled and roughly square in shape. The Honmaru, which houses the castle tower in the southwest, is encircled by the Ninomaru, which has a concave shape and is missing its northern part. This area is further surrounded by the Sannomaru on all four sides. The overall design of the castle combines a ladder-shaped and contoured layout. These sections are separated by water moats. Matsumoto Castle is the only one among the 12 remaining castle towers in Japan to feature a flatland structure.
You can get two stamps after purchasing your ticket (700 yen) to Matsumoto Castle.
Climbing Through History: Inside the Main Keep
The five-story castle tower is the central feature of Matsumoto Castle, with the smaller Inui tower connected to the main tower’s north side by a crossing tower. On the east side, the Tatsumi-tsuke tower and Tsukimi tower are located. The main tower includes a hakama-shaped stone drop tower on the first floor, tsuki-agari windows, and chidori-hafu gables on the north and south sides of the second floor, and the east and west sides of the third floor. Additionally, the third floor has bay windows with muko-kara-hafu on the north and south sides. The Tatsumi-tsuke and Tsukimi towers were built by Matsudaira Naomasa, the feudal lord at the time, after the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, had agreed to stop in Matsumoto during his trip to Zenko-ji Temple in Nagano. Though Iemitsu’s visit was canceled, the Tsukimi tower remains as a unique part of the castle.
Structurally, the large tower marks a transition from a watchtower-style to a multi-tiered tower. The second-story roof maintains a watchtower-style internal structure with a gambrel roof to correct the distortion of the tower base. However, the exterior features a hipped roof without a gambrel. Due to the multi-tiered design, the corners of the roofs at each level point in various directions, creating a distinctive characteristic of Matsumoto Castle. This design led to the creation of a unique third-floor space with a low ceiling and no windows, which is sometimes referred to as the “secret floor”. In reality, it is a remnant of the large roof structure above the second story, repurposed as a floor. The interior is designed for livability, with the top (sixth) and fourth floors featuring white walls. The exterior walls are covered in black-lacquered clapboards from the first floor to the top, a color originally achieved with ink until restoration work began in 1950. During these repairs, traces of lacquer were found, and since then, the building has been painted black.
Although Matsumoto Castle is classified as a multi-tiered tower-type castle, it is considered to have originally been a watchtower-type castle tower based on architectural history. Built in 1597, it predates Tanba Kameyama Castle -often regarded as the first multi-tiered tower-type castle – by more than 10 years. However, traces of reconstruction were discovered during the dismantling and repairs conducted between 1950 and 1955. It is believed that the original structure was a watchtower-type castle with an outer veranda balustrade on the top floor and many gables on each roof. In 1633, the Matsudaira clan reconstructed the tower, adding the attached tower and moon-viewing tower, which gave it its current multi-tiered appearance.
The Tilt of the Castle Tower
The tilt of the castle tower during the Meiji period is believed to have been caused by the deterioration of 16 support pillars embedded in the base of the tower. The foundation construction method used was built on soft ground, which caused the structure to sink under its own weight. Records also document significant damage and fires from the 1854 Ansei Tokai earthquake, which destroyed the turrets of the Honmaru and Sannomaru, the square wall of the Otemon Gate, and other structures. The castle tower, Taikomon Gate, and Honmaru back gate were also severely damaged. A legend emerged during the Meiji period about Tada Kasuke, the leader of the Jokyo Disturbance, who, as he was crucified, allegedly glared at the castle tower and screamed with such rage that it instantly tilted.
Getting There and Practical Information
From Tokyo, Matsumoto Castle is easily accessible by the Azusa Limited Express from Shinjuku (about 2.5 hours) or via the Hokuriku Shinkansen and Resort View Furusato route through Nagano for a scenic journey. The admission fee is 700 yen for adults and 300 yen for children.
Matsumoto Castle is more than just a historical site—it’s a symbol of Japan’s samurai era, a masterpiece of castle architecture, and a breathtaking seasonal destination. Whether you’re admiring its striking black walls, climbing its historic interior, or enjoying the surrounding scenery, a visit to Matsumoto Castle is an unforgettable experience.
Would you prefer to visit during cherry blossom season or on a snowy winter day? Let me know in the comments!
