Nestled in the heart of Aichi Prefecture, Toyokawa Inari is a striking and sacred site that has captivated both locals and travelers alike for centuries. Famous for its spiritual significance and deep ties to Japanese folklore, this shrine is dedicated to Inari, the deity of rice, prosperity, and foxes. As a place where ancient beliefs meet vibrant culture, Toyokawa Inari is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in Japanese spirituality, history, and folklore.
The Spiritual Heart of Toyokawa Inari
Toyokawa Inari, ormally known as Toyokawa Daijingu and Myogon-ji, is recognized as one of Japan’s Big Three Inari Shrines, alongside Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari and Yutoku Inari Temple in Saga Prefecture. Founded in 1441 by the monk Tokai Geki, Toyokawa Inari is a fascinating blend of traditions.
The principal image at Myogon-ji Temple is the Eleven-Headed Thousand-Armed Kannon. When the new Hodo Hall was completed, a new statue of this Kannon was placed over the original one, which was then transformed into a womb Buddha.
The Inari in Toyokawa Inari refers to Dakiniten, the guardian deity enshrined within the temple grounds. Dakiniten is a Buddhist goddess with origins in ancient Indian folk beliefs, but in Japan, she was syncretized with the Inari faith and came to be regarded as the same deity as Inari. At Myogon-ji Temple, she is known as Dakinishinten but is sometimes affectionately called Sonten-sama.
The temple is therefore often referred to as “Toyokawa Inari” due to the presence of the secret Buddha, and, while Toyokawa Inari is not a shrine, there is a torii gate marking the approach to the temple.
The torii gate at the entrance of Toyokawa Inari, with the two guardian foxes.
A Blend of Buddhism and Shintoism Beliefs
Myogon-ji Temple was founded in 1441 by Tokai Gieki, a member of the Soto Zen sect of Buddhism. At the end of the Muromachi period, the temple was renovated by Imagawa Yoshimoto. Originally located on a hill called Enpuku-ga-oka near the Toyokawa River, the temple was moved to its current location during the Genroku period. As a result, the temple’s mountain name is Enpuku-san. The existing buildings were rebuilt in modern times, starting from the end of the Edo period.
According to legend, the Zen monk Kanan Yoshitada, who is revered at Myogon-ji Temple as the founder of the Houou sect, traveled to Song China and received divine protection from Dakiniten during his return to Japan by ship in 1267. This experience led him to adopt Dakiniten as guardian deity. Later, when his grandson, Tokai Gieki, founded Myogon-ji Temple, he enshrined a statue of Dakiniten, crafted by Kanan himself, as the temple gate’s guardian deity. The statue depicts Dakiniten as a celestial maiden riding a white fox, holding a bundle of rice and a jewel, flying over a rock.
There is also a popular myth that Heihachi the Fox is enshrined here. According to the story, when Myogon-ji Temple was first established, a fox in the form of an old man named Heihachiro appeared and served as a temple attendant. After the temple’s founder passed away, the fox disappeared, leaving behind its favorite kettle. This kettle is still enshrined at the back of the main hall today.
During the Sengoku period, the temple was supported by the Mikawa feudal lords, Imagawa Yoshimoto and Tokugawa Ieyasu, and was also revered by military commanders such as Kuki Yoshitaka. While the Konpira Shrine in Shikoku is traditionally known as the guardian deity of maritime traffic, Yoshitaka, who was within the sphere of influence of the Mori Navy, is said to have worshipped Toyokawa Inari, as it was located within Ieyasu’s territory and more accessible for his prayers.
In the Edo period, the shrine was worshipped by figures like Ooka Tadasuke and Watanabe Kazan and was also popular among the common people of Edo, who prayed for success in life and protection from theft. In 1828, a corner of Ooka’s residence was rented to establish the Edo Pilgrimage Site, which later became the Tokyo Betsuin.
Towards the end of the Edo period, stone torii gates were erected in Toyohashi and Toyokawa cities in Aichi Prefecture, allowing travelers on the Tokaido road to visit Toyokawa Inari Shrine.
Approaching the Reikozuka. The atmosphere at Toyokawa Inari is completely different than that of Fushimi Inari.
Separation of Shinto and Buddhism
In 1871, Myogon-ji Temple faced rigorous scrutiny under the Shinbutsu Bunri-rei (law to separate Shinto and Buddhism), which required a distinction between the two religions. However, in the following year, the temple was allowed to continue worshipping the Inari Hall as the temple’s guardian deity. Despite this, the torii gates that had lined the approach to the temple grounds were removed, and the names Toyokawa Inari and Toyokawa Daimyojin were no longer used. From that point onward, the temple was referred to as Toyokawa Dakiniten, although the common name Toyokawa Inari was soon revived.
After World War II, a torii gate was erected at the temple’s current location, but it was originally from the Tokaido road at the end of the Edo period and had been relocated and stored on the premises in 1930. Furthermore, after the abandonment of Aizen-ji Temple (the Hongansho temple of Fushimi Inari), which had enshrined Dakiniten in temples and shrines across Japan during the Edo period, Toyokawa Inari became a central location for enshrining Dakiniten from the Meiji period onward.
There are lots of coins scattered around the Reikozuka, including on the statues’ heads.
The Hill of Foxes
While Toyokawa Inari may not boast the immense scale of the renowned Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto, it offers far more tranquil spaces. One area that stands out is the Reiko-zuka, or Hill of Foxes. This location is home to an impressive collection of fox statues, which are traditionally seen as messengers of the Inari deity. While it’s common to find a few fox statues at other Inari shrines in Japan, the sheer number here is unlike any other.
This spot is considered a power place, believed to enhance one’s luck with money. Amid the red-bibbed foxes in sitting poses, a massive boulder sits at the center, with two larger fox statues perched atop. Visitors often throw or place coins in the gaps and crevices of the boulder, hoping to attract wealth. It is said that anyone able to retrieve one of the coins should keep it as a lucky charm, as it is believed to bring future prosperity. However, it is also recommended that they return and place more valuable coins in the boulder, continuing the cycle of good fortune.
Though the Reiko-zuka is the main highlight, there are several other fascinating spots to explore, including the fox omikuji. Here, you can purchase a fox statue in your preferred color, and it will come with a paper showing your upcoming fortunes.
Toyokawa Inari Omotesando, the shopping street in front of the complex.
A Path of Foxes
The street in front of the main gates is lined with over 100 local specialties, restaurants, cafes, and souvenir shops, making for a pleasant stroll. Among the local delicacies is Inari Zushi, a slightly sweetened pouch of fried tofu filled with sushi rice, said to be a favorite of foxes. Many restaurants offer take away too – we ate at Matsuya, which offers a variety of flavors, and a bench where you can stop and dine with fox statues! Fox-shaped cookies and spongy pastries filled with sweet red bean paste can also be found, adding to the unique culinary offerings of the area.
Paint Your Own Japanese Fox Mask
Foxes hold a special place in Japanese culture, regarded as protectors with the power to ward off evil spirits. Inspired by the Noh theater, fox masks are worn during many Shinto festivals to honor the gods.
At Shiki Gitsune, a small shop specializing in fox masks, visitors can participate in a hands-on fox mask painting experience. This activity is a fun and creative way to make a handmade souvenir, while adding a memorable touch to the trip. Start by choosing the size of the mask—half-sized or full-sized. Then, think about your design. You can either copy one of the available samples or create your own unique design. Practice with different brushes before using them on the mask, and sketch your design with a pencil to guide you. Once ready, use acrylic paints to bring your design to life, taking care to avoid staining yourself. The paint will dry in just a few minutes, allowing you to take your mask home right away.
The entire experience takes about 30 minutes to an hour, though if you opt for a more detailed design, you may need a bit more time. The cost is 1,200 yen for the half-sized mask and 1,500 yen for the full-sized mask. No preparation is needed, as the shop provides all the materials. Afterward, explore the shop’s collection of fox-related goods and figures, where you might find a special item to take home.
Try counting all the foxes that can be found around Omotesando.
Practical Tips for Visiting Toyokawa Inari
Toyokawa Inari Shrine is easily accessible by train from Toyohashi Station or the city of Nagoya. The journey from Toyohashi takes about 30 minutes, making it a convenient day trip. If you’re in Tokyo and want to make it a daytrip, you can take the shinkansen to Toyohashi and then the train.
Although you can use Suica for the journey between the mentioned stations, if you decide to go further on the trainline you will encounter stations where you cannot use IC cards.
Whether you’re a traveler seeking to connect with Japan’s rich folklore, a pilgrim in search of spiritual blessings, or simply someone who appreciates beautiful and historic sites, Toyokawa Inari offers an unforgettable experience. With its mesmerizing atmosphere, fox spirits, and deep cultural significance, it stands as a powerful reminder of the lasting influence of folklore in modern Japan.
Next time you’re in Aichi Prefecture, be sure to take a walk through the gates of Toyokawa Inari and see where ancient traditions and Japanese culture converge, offering blessings of prosperity and spiritual fulfillment.
