Nestled along the Kiso River, Inuyama is a picturesque town steeped in history, culture, and folklore. Just a short trip from Nagoya or Gifu, this destination offers a perfect blend of samurai heritage, spiritual traditions, and vibrant shopping streets lined with local delicacies. Whether you’re drawn by the majestic Inuyama Castle, the mystical Inari shrine, or the nostalgic atmosphere of its old town, Inuyama is a must-visit for anyone exploring Japan’s past and present.
Inuyama Castle: A National Treasure
Dominating the town’s skyline, Inuyama Castle is one of the 12 original castle keeps that have survived from before the Edo period. Recognized as a National Treasure, Inuyama Castle is one of only five castles in Japan to hold this prestigious designation, alongside Himeji Castle, Matsumoto Castle, Hikone Castle, and Matsue Castle. The castle ruins, known as the Inuyama Castle Ruins, have also been designated a National Historic Site.
Situated on the border of the former Owari and Mino provinces, Inuyama Castle is a flatland castle built atop an 88-meter-high hill overlooking the Kiso River. Built in 1469, the castle’s origins trace back to Oda Nobuyasu, the uncle of Oda Nobunaga, who transformed a fort of the Iwakura Oda clan into a more fortified structure. It later came under the control of Ikeda Tsuneoki and Oda Katsunaga. During the Toyotomi era, Ishikawa Sadakiyo (Mitsuyoshi) oversaw renovations that shaped the castle into its present form. Inuyama Castle also played a significant role in key battles, serving as a strategic base for the Western forces in both the Battle of Komaki and Nagakute and the Battle of Sekigahara.
During the Edo period, the castle was entrusted to Hiraiwa Chikayoshi, a retainer of the Owari clan. From the time of Naruse Masashige onward, nine generations of the Naruse family governed the castle until the Meiji period. The exact date of the current castle tower’s construction remains debated, with theories placing it in the Tenbun or Keicho periods, though it is known that Naruse Masashige renovated it around 1617.
Remarkably, Inuyama Castle remained privately owned until March 2004, when it was transferred to the Inuyama Castle Hakutei Bunko Foundation (now a public-interest foundation). Plans are underway in Inuyama City to survey and restore lost structures, including the reconstruction of stone walls, moats, and earthworks.
We improvised a visit to Inuyama from Gifu and arrived at the castle about 30 minutes before closing time. Everyone was so kind and other people in our same situation were already taking pictures in the garden. The entrance fee is 550 yen.
The Castle Tower Structure
The castle tower of Inuyama Castle appears as a three-story structure from the outside but has four interior levels, along with a basement area consisting of two levels, including a landing. It features a composite design, with single-story annexes attached to the south and west sides. At its core, the castle tower follows a watchtower-style layout, consisting of a three-bay by four-bay watchtower set atop a two-story building with a gabled roof.
The architectural details include various window styles such as tsukimado (moon-viewing windows), firelight windows, and double-hinged windows. The total floor area, including the entrances on the first and second basement levels, measures approximately 698.8 square meters. The stone walls supporting the castle tower are built in the nozura-zumi style (using unshaped stones) and stand about five meters high, while the tower itself reaches a height of 19 meters.
Masatoshi Naruse had close ties with the chief of the Dutch trading post in Nagasaki. It is said that he had a carpet laid on the top floor of the castle tower, a rare feature for Japanese castles. This detail was faithfully recreated during restoration work in the Showa period.
On July 12, 2017, just after 4 p.m., severe damage was discovered on the castle’s shachihoko (ornamental roof fish), which had been broken from its body to its tail. The north-side lightning rod was also bent. Given that a thunderstorm had passed through the area that afternoon, Inuyama City concluded that a lightning strike was the likely cause. The damaged shachihoko was replaced with a new tile-made version, which was installed on February 26, 2018.
Perched atop a small hill, the castle offers stunning panoramic views of the Kiso River and surrounding countryside. Walking through its wooden corridors and climbing the steep, narrow stairs, visitors can truly feel the presence of the samurai who once defended these walls. Despite its small size compared to other castles, its historical authenticity and breathtaking vantage point make it one of the most rewarding castle visits in Japan.
Sanko Inari Shrine with its fox statues and match-making Himeki Shrine.
Sanko Inari Shrine: The Castle’s Guardian Shrine
At the foot of Inuyama Castle stands Sanko Inari Shrine. The shrine’s red torii gates create a striking contrast against the castle’s stone walls, blending seamlessly into the town’s historical landscape. The exact origins of the shrine remain uncertain, but it was originally situated on Sankojiyama, the site of what is now Marunouchi Ryokuchi Park. It was venerated by Oda Nobuyasu, the first lord of Inuyama Castle. Since the Edo period, the shrine has served as the guardian deity for the successive lords of Inuyama Castle, the Naruse family.
Every year on July 22, a captivating festival takes place at Sanko Inari Shrine. As night falls, families carry small red lanterns, hanging from bamboo branches, as they make their way to the shrine. The highlight of the evening unfolds on the Kiso River, where grand makiwara boats, adorned with countless paper lanterns arranged in a dome shape, gently float downstream to the sound of traditional music. The shimmering reflections of the lanterns on the water create an enchanting spectacle, preserving a beloved summer tradition in Aichi.
Sanko Inari Jinja is a popular destination for those seeking blessings for prosperous businesses. A well-known legend claims that washing coins in sacred water using a perforated basket on the shrine grounds will multiply one’s wealth. Within the shrine grounds is Himeki Jinja, a smaller shrine dedicated to love, harmonious households, and peaceful marriages. Visitors often write their prayers on adorable heart-shaped wooden plaques, which line the torii path. Women, couples, and married visitors come to seek blessings for romance and lasting relationships.
Another intriguing aspect of the shrine is the omokaru stone, a sacred object believed to reveal the difficulty of one’s wishes. Resting on a red cushion near the main hall, the stone is said to reflect the ease of achieving a wish—if it feels light when lifted, the wish is within reach.
Plan some time in your itinerary to take a slow stroll around the Castle Town, savouring the different foods.
Exploring the Castle Town Shopping Street
Inuyama Castle Town took shape alongside the construction of the castle, transforming the existing settlement into a thriving hub. Merchants and craftsmen were encouraged to settle in the area, fostering economic growth—a legacy reflected in place names like Kajiya-chō (Blacksmith Town) and Uoya-chō (Fishmonger Town).
Designed for both prosperity and defense, the town featured a central district for townspeople, encircled by a samurai quarter. Protective moats and earthworks reinforced its perimeter, ensuring the castle town’s security. Remarkably, the town’s layout has remained largely unchanged since the Edo period, and its streets are lined with historical buildings spanning from Edo to Showa, preserving the charm of centuries past. Strolling through its narrow lanes, visitors can admire the beautiful architecture, browse quaint shops, and immerse themselves in the nostalgic atmosphere of historic Japan.
Beyond its architectural beauty, Inuyama Castle Town is a hub of cultural experiences. Visitors can enjoy local crafts, relax in traditional tea houses, and participate in seasonal festivals that celebrate the town’s rich heritage. Be sure to sample Inuyama-ame, a local sweet, and explore the many boutique shops selling handcrafted goods. The warm hospitality of the locals adds to the town’s charm, making each visit a memorable one.
Some must-try treats include gohei mochi, skewered rice cakes grilled with a sweet miso glaze, a local specialty, castella covered with sugar, matcha powder or cacao powder, and dango. Many shops offer tabearuki (food for walking), making it easy to enjoy different flavors while exploring.
Getting to Inuyama from Gifu and Nagoya
Inuyama is easily accessible from both Nagoya and Gifu.
From Nagoya, take the Meitetsu Inuyama Line from Meitetsu Nagoya Station. A Limited Express train reaches Inuyama Station in about 25 minutes.
From Gifu, board the Meitetsu Kakamigahara Line from Meitetsu Gifu Station, transferring at Inuyama Station if necessary. The journey takes around 40 minutes. The JR Hida Line from Gifu Station is also very convenient, stopping at Unuma, about 15 minutes walk from Inuyama Castle.
Both routes offer a comfortable and scenic ride, allowing you to relax before stepping into this beautifully preserved castle town.
