If you’re looking to immerse yourself in a beautiful blend of tradition, culture, and coastal charm, Katsuura, located in the southern part of Chiba Prefecture, is the perfect place to visit during the Hina Matsuri. During this time, people display ornate hina dolls, which represent the Japanese imperial court, and hold various traditional events. Katsuura, with its scenic coastal views and rich local history, offers a unique experience for those wanting to enjoy this beloved festival at Tomisaki Shrine.
What is Hina Matsuri?
Hina Matsuri, or Girls’ Festival, is celebrated on March 3 to pray for the happiness and well-being of girls. March 3 is also known as Joshi no Sekku, one of the five seasonal festivals, and is sometimes called Momo no Sekku (Peach Festival) or Hina no Sekku (Girls’ Festival).
The origins of the Peach Festival date back to before the Heian period, and it is believed to have started as the Joshi no Sekku. During this time, the daughters of the aristocratic class in Kyoto would play in palaces decorated to resemble the Imperial Palace, the residence of the Emperor, praying for good health and protection from evil.
Over time, the tradition spread to samurai society, and during the Edo period, the combination of doll play and seasonal festivals for the common people led to the development of the event as we know it today. It later became a way to ward off misfortune by creating small paper figures (katashiro), transferring impurities to them, and letting them float in rivers or the sea. This custom is still practiced today as Nagashibina.
Originally, the festival was celebrated by both boys and girls alongside the Boys’ Festival on May 5th. However, from the Edo period onward, the lavish display of dolls became closely associated with girls, while the Boys’ Festival, linked with the phrase martial arts, became recognized as a celebration for boys. This division has continued to the present day.
A display of hina dolls welcomes you at Katsuura Station.
The Peach Festival was originally held on the day of the snake of the third month of the lunar calendar, which usually falls in April in the Gregorian calendar, coinciding with the blooming of peach blossoms. However, since the Meiji era, it has generally been celebrated on March 3rd of the Gregorian calendar. As peaches are not in bloom at this time, artificial peach flowers are often used for decorations instead.
In some regions, the festival is celebrated a month later, on April 3rd of the Gregorian calendar, to avoid clashing with the busy spring farming season.
During the Edo period, Japan’s samurai society designated the five seasonal festivals, including Hina Matsuri, as ceremonial days. However, these were abolished when the imperial court’s rituals were restored during the Meiji Restoration. After the National Holidays Act was passed post-war, only Tango no Sekku, or Children’s Day, became a national holiday, while the other seasonal festivals, including Hinamatsuri, did not.
Hina displays are scattered throughout Katsuura.
Hina Dolls
During Hina Matsuri, dolls called hina ningyo are displayed. These dolls are often modeled after a wedding ceremony between a male and female figure, dressed in costumes and furnishings styled after the nobility. The display represents a traditional celebration of girls’ health and happiness.
There are two main types of Hina dolls, Kyoto Hina, made in Kyoto, and Kanto Hina, made in the Kanto region. Kyoto Hina dolls have slightly narrower eyes and the distinctive gentle features, known as Kyoto-style heads. In contrast, Kanto Hina dolls have heads with more pronounced features.
Though there are no strict rules for when to display Hina dolls, it is generally considered best to set them up from the day after Setsubun (the beginning of spring) until around mid-February. It is also advised to put the dolls away soon after Hina Matsuri, though it is better to wait for a sunny day to prevent mold. A popular belief suggests that if you don’t put the dolls away promptly, it may delay your marriage, though this is more about encouraging tidiness and discipline.
Historically, Hina dolls were part of a bride’s dowry, often given by the bride’s maternal family, though this custom can vary today.
Hina dolls are crafted with careful attention to detail. The body is formed from tightly packed straw, and the arms and legs are created by wrapping wood wool around washi paper. Wire is threaded through the body to attach the limbs. The costumes are made by cutting and sewing fabric stencils from washi paper. Traditionally, the neck of the doll is made from paulownia wood, which is shaped using a mixture of powdered wood and shofu paste or a whitewash made from dissolved powdered shells. In modern production, plaster heads made by pouring plaster into silicon molds are sometimes used instead.
A Prince and Princess display outside the gates at Katsuura Station.
Hina Doll Display
The Hina doll display represents a traditional wedding ceremony between a male and female doll, with costumes and furnishings designed in the style of the aristocracy. A scarlet carpet is often laid out, on which the Hina dolls are arranged alongside ornaments, known as dogu or hina dogu, that resemble the tools used by the dolls.
The most common display is the seven-tiered Hinadan. In the traditional fifteen-person set, the top tiers feature the Emperor and Empress dolls (a male and female pair), three court ladies, five musicians, two attendants, and three servants or guards. The lower tiers contain wedding paraphernalia on the sixth tier and shrine procession items on the seventh.
There are also smaller three-tiered and five-tiered displays. The three-tiered display includes the Emperor and Empress dolls, court ladies, and wedding paraphernalia. The five-tiered display features the Emperor and Empress, court ladies, five musicians, attendants, and wedding paraphernalia. Odd numbers—three, five, and seven—are preferred for celebratory occasions as they are believed to be auspicious.
A single tier featuring male and female dolls is referred to as a Prince and Princess display.
There was a line to Tomisaki Shrine, so I looked around and spotted the staircase from a different angle.
A Visit to Tomisaki Shrine During Hina Matsuri
The Katsuura Big Hina Matsuri is a major event held annually from late February to March 3rd, involving the entire community. During this time, the city of Katsuura is adorned with Hina dolls, creating a vibrant and festive atmosphere. Dolls are displayed at shrines and temples, including the staircase dolls at Tomisaki Shrine, as well as in shops and post offices across the city.
Everyday on sunny days, residents work together to decorate the 60 steps of Tomisaki Shrine with dolls, which are removed in case of rain. At night, the display is illuminated, making it the most photogenic spot of the event. Tomisaki Shrine also offers a special goshuin during the festival.
The festival is rather recent. In 2001, thanks to the nationwide Katsuura network, around 7,000 Hina dolls were brought from Katsuura Town in Tokushima Prefecture, leading to the inception of the Katsuura Big Hina Matsuri in Katsuura City, Chiba Prefecture. Today, many Hina dolls are donated from across the country, with around 10,000 dolls displayed throughout the city. In 2024, the festival attracted approximately 160,000 visitors from all over Japan.
When it’s not adorned with dolls during the Hina Matsuri season, the staircase at Tomisaki Shrine is known as a power spot for the locals, believed to bring good fortune and happiness to those who climb it.
Follow Kappy the shark with the big eyes, mascotte of Katsuura!
Exploring Katsuura
After your visit to Tomisaki Shrine, take the time to explore Katsuura itself. A coastal city along the Pacific Ocean, it has long been a favorite seaside retreat for Tokyo residents. Not only is it one of the top beach destinations near Tokyo, but its coastline is also recognized as one of Japan’s top-100 coastlines.
The best way to experience Katsuura is by arriving early in the morning. The main street leading to the fishing port is lined with vendor booths, which change daily. On weekdays, the market is more relaxed with only a few booths, but weekends bring a vibrant atmosphere, with special events and dozens of independent vendors eager to attract customers. Known for its scenic coastal views, the area is famous for its fresh seafood. If you’re in the mood for some local delicacies, consider visiting one of the many seafood restaurants along the coast, where you can enjoy freshly prepared dishes such as tuna, squid, and other local catches.
Katsuura’s surf culture adds to the appeal, with locals enjoying water sports even in the colder winter months. In the summer, the city’s sandy beaches become a perfect spot for swimming and relaxation, though the beaches are usually only open from mid-July to August and may close during dangerous conditions or if lifeguards aren’t available. For a more relaxing experience, take a stroll along the Katsuura Bay, which offers stunning views of the ocean and the surrounding landscape.
Access
Alternatively, take the JR Wakashio limited express from Tokyo Station. The train ride takes about 90 minutes, offering a scenic journey as you travel south.
A visit to Katsuura during Hina Matsuri is an unforgettable experience. With the beautiful setting of Tomisaki Shrine, the intricate hina doll displays, and the peaceful atmosphere of the coastal town, you’ll have the chance to connect with Japan’s rich traditions while enjoying the beauty of nature. Whether you’re exploring the shrine’s grounds, learning about the festival’s significance, or relaxing along the coast, Katsuura offers a perfect blend of culture and scenery for a memorable day trip.
