Japan’s history is deeply connected to its roads, which once served as vital arteries for trade, travel, and communication. During the Edo period (1603–1868), the Tokugawa shogunate developed an extensive network of highways, the most famous of which were the Five Routes, or Gokaido. These roads connected Edo (modern-day Tokyo) to different parts of the country, ensuring the movement of people and goods while also reinforcing the shogunate’s control. Today, remnants of these ancient highways still exist, offering travelers a glimpse into Japan’s past.
The Beginnings
The Gokaido, or Five Routes, took shape during the Tokugawa shogunate as part of a major reform of Japan’s road system. In 1601, two years before officially becoming shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu ordered the first large-scale roadworks in the country. This network was designed to solidify his political control and ensure smoother communication and transportation across the nation.
In 1604, Nihonbashi Bridge in Edo was designated as the official starting point of the country’s main highways. Over the following decades, the five major routes were gradually established. The Tokaido was completed in 1624, the Nikko Kaido in 1636, the Oshu Kaido in 1646, the Nakasendo in 1694, and the Koshu Kaido in 1772. These roads were developed with strict regulations, determining everything from their width to the presence or absence of trees along the routes.
To standardize distances, the roads were divided into ri, a unit measuring approximately 3.927 kilometers. Travelers could track their journey using ichirizuka, small mounds of earth topped with vegetation, which were placed in pairs on either side of the road at every ri.
Stretching for hundreds of kilometers, the Gokaido were lined with shukuba, or post stations, which provided inns, checkpoints, and horse relay stations. Shogunal regulations even specified the number of horses that had to be available at each station. Depending on the route, these relay stations were spaced approximately 7 to 10 kilometers apart.
For over 250 years, daimyo, merchants, craftsmen, samurai, pilgrims, and travelers of all kinds traversed these roads, whether on foot, horseback, or in rickshaws, making the Gokaido an essential part of life in Edo-period Japan.
The famous places on the Tokaido in one view by Katsushika Hokusai.
Well-Maintained Roads and Travel Conditions
When Western travelers arrived in Japan in 1858, following more than two centuries of isolation, they were quick to praise the quality of the country’s road network. The Gokaido stood out for their width and well-planned infrastructure, featuring ditches on either side to drain excess water. Regular and meticulous maintenance ensured that these roads remained in excellent condition throughout the year.
One key factor behind this upkeep was the sankin-kotai system, introduced by Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu in 1635. Under this policy, daimyo were required to spend alternate years in Edo, leaving their families behind as hostages when they returned to their domains. Their frequent and highly formalized journeys, accompanied by large processions, meant that the roads had to be kept in pristine condition. Before their passage, stretches of road covered in sand were carefully swept, watered, and cleared of debris to provide a smooth and dignified route for these powerful lords and their entourages.
Numerous accounts from the late 19th century describe in detail what it was like to travel on the Gokaido, particularly the Tokaido, the most heavily traveled of the five routes. These records offer valuable insight into the infrastructure that shaped movement and communication in Edo-period Japan.
The Tokaido – The Most Famous Route
The Tokaido was the most important and well-traveled of the five roads, stretching approximately 500 kilometers from Edo to Kyoto along the Pacific coast. It featured 53 post stations where travelers could rest, eat, and change horses. This route was made famous by artists like Utagawa Hiroshige, whose woodblock prints vividly captured the landscapes and bustling post towns. Even today, modern travelers can experience parts of the old Tokaido by visiting preserved post towns like Hakone and walking along historical sections of the path.
The Nakasendo – The Mountain Route
Unlike the coastal Tokaido, the Nakasendo traveled through the mountainous interior of Japan, linking Edo and Kyoto via a 540-kilometer route. It had 69 post stations and was considered a safer alternative since it avoided dangerous river crossings. The Nakasendo is well-known today for its well-preserved Edo-era post towns, such as Magome and Tsumago in Nagano and Gifu Prefectures. Walking along these sections feels like stepping back in time, with traditional wooden buildings, stone pathways, and scenic views of the Kiso Valley.
The Koshu Kaido – The Road to Kai Province
Connecting Edo to Kofu in present-day Yamanashi Prefecture, the Kōshū Kaidō was a crucial route for both samurai and merchants. It passed through mountainous terrain and had 44 post stations. This road was significant for transporting Koshu silk and other goods, supporting the region’s economy. Today, remnants of the old route can be explored around the historical post towns of Hachioji and Kofu, with some sections still preserving their Edo-period atmosphere.
The Oshu Kaido – The Northern Highway
The Oshu Kaido extended north from Edo toward Mutsu Province (now part of Tohoku), serving as a strategic military and trade route. It had 27 official post stations and was used by daimyos, merchants, and travelers heading toward northern Japan. Unlike the Tokaido or Nakasendo, this route saw less travel due to the harsh winters in the Tohoku region. However, today’s explorers can visit preserved sites in Fukushima and Sendai to trace the road’s historical significance.
The Nikko Kaido – The Road to the Sacred
The shortest of the five routes, the Nikko Kaido led from Edo to the famous Nikko Toshogu Shrine, where Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the shogunate, was enshrined. Covering about 140 kilometers, it was primarily used for ceremonial processions by the Tokugawa family. Some original sections of the Nikko Kaido remain, particularly around Utsunomiya and Nikko, where travelers can still see old cedar-lined roads and traditional stone pathways leading to the shrine.
Five passengers and the man rowing the boat are sailing across the Tama River. The shoreline of Kawasaki shows other merchants and the sort waiting to board the boat. On the left side is a lone man wearing red, standing on a large pile of bamboo. Behind the figures are the tops of buildings and houses. Far into the background is Mt. Fuji on the right side, surrounded by streaks of red clouds it’s the base.
Walking in the Footsteps of History
Though these roads were originally built for practical and political purposes, they have since become cultural treasures. Many sections of the Gokaido have been lost to modern highways and urbanization, but some historic portions still remain, allowing visitors to experience the old ways of travel. Whether walking through the picturesque post towns of the Nakasendo, following Hiroshige’s famous Tokaido landscapes, or exploring the sacred paths of the Nikko Kaido, these ancient highways offer a deep connection to Japan’s past.
For history enthusiasts, culture lovers, and adventure seekers, tracing the paths of the Five Old Roads is a unique way to experience Japan beyond the modern cities, immersing in the landscapes and traditions that have shaped the country for centuries.
