Shorinzan Darumaji: The Birthplace of the Lucky Daruma Doll

Nestled in the hills of Takasaki, Gunma Prefecture, Shorinzan Darumaji is a temple deeply connected to one of Japan’s most iconic symbols of perseverance and good luck—the Daruma doll. With a rich history, spiritual significance, and annual festivals that attract thousands of visitors, this temple offers a fascinating glimpse into Japan’s traditions.

The History of Shorinzan Darumaji

Shorinzan Darumaji was founded in 1697 as a temple of the Obaku school of Zen Buddhism, a sect introduced from China during the Edo period. The temple was built under the guidance of Tetsushi Osho, a Zen monk, and received the patronage of the local feudal lord.

According to an old legend, sometime between 1673 and 1681, a heavy rainstorm caused the Usui River to flood. When the waters receded, villagers discovered a mysterious tree near the riverbed. It glowed softly and gave off a fragrant scent, leading them to believe it was sacred. They carefully carried the tree to a small hut that housed the local Kannon statue. As they placed it inside, a purple mist began to swirl around them.

Around the same time, a traveling monk named Ichiryo Koji had a dream in which Bodhidharma Daishi appeared before him. In the vision, Bodhidharma instructed him to carve an image of his likeness from a tree that matched the exact height of his nose. In 1680, Ichiryo Koji set out in search of the destined tree and eventually arrived at the village that had been affected by the flood. There, he found the sacred tree the villagers had discovered. With great care and devotion, he carved the image of Bodhidharma Daishi. Once completed, the statue was placed beside the Kannon statue, and both were enshrined together.

Ichiryo Koji’s dedication left a deep impression on the villagers. From that time on, the area became known as Shorinzan, the sacred place where the Daruma appeared. Recognizing its spiritual significance, the ruling lord of the time ordered the founding of Shorinzan Daruma Temple in 1697 to serve as a place of worship and protection for his castle, which was historically known as Maebashi Castle but had a different name at the time.

You can purchase and write your wish on ema tablets shaped as Daruma

Connecting to the Daruma

Between 1783 and 1787, during the Great Tenmei Famine, the ninth-generation Zen master of Shorinzan Darumaji helped struggling villagers by teaching them how to craft papier-mâché dolls modeled after traditional Daruma figures. This initiative provided the locals with a source of income and eventually led to the establishment of what is now the Shorinzan Nanakusa Taisai Daruma Market Festival. Held annually on January 6 and 7, the festival continues to attract thousands of visitors who come to purchase new Daruma dolls and bring their old ones to be ritually burned.

On June 14, 1881, a fire broke out at Shorinzan, destroying much of the temple and its historical records, including important details about its original construction. Among the lost artifacts was a temple bell, donated during World War II, which was said to have an inscription dating back to 1712.

In 1934, the German architect Bruno Taut fled Nazi Germany with his wife and was invited to Japan, eventually settling in Takasaki. A small, vacant building on the outskirts of Shorinzan became their home for the two years they lived in the city. At his farewell gathering on October 10, 1936, Taut expressed his wish to have his remains buried at the temple after his passing.

During the 1930s or 1940s, while still working as an assistant director, filmmaker Akira Kurosawa wrote a screenplay titled “A German at Daruma Temple”, which was set at Shorinzan. However, the film was never produced.

Today Takasaki, thanks to Shorinzan Darumaji, remains Japan’s top producer of Daruma dolls, making over 80 percent of the nation’s Daruma.

The temple is filled with Daruma dolls of various sizes and colors, each carrying its own symbolic meaning. Red is the most common, traditionally associated with inviting general good fortune. Adjacent to the temple, a museum showcases non-traditional Daruma designs, offering a glimpse into the diverse interpretations of this iconic figure.

The Significance of the Daruma Doll

Daruma, also known as Dharma, refers to the Buddhist monk Bodhidharma, who is believed to have brought Buddhism from India to China. Most Daruma dolls are made from red papier-mâché, with a round, limbless shape and a large face. Their design is inspired by the legend of Bodhidharma meditating facing a wall for nine years, during which his arms and legs withered away. The dolls are sold with blank white eyes, following a custom that dates back to the Bunka era in Edo. It is tradition to paint one eye black when making a wish or setting a goal and to fill in the second eye once the wish has been fulfilled. This practice continues to this day.

Zen Buddhism, introduced to Japan during the Kamakura period, holds Bodhidharma in high regard, often referring to him as the founder. In Zen temples, hanging scrolls and plaques depicting Bodhidharma are commonly displayed in place of traditional Buddhist statues. According to legend, after meditating while facing a wall for nine years, Bodhidharma’s arms and legs withered away. This story is believed to have inspired the creation of limb-less ornaments in his likeness.

The origins of the Daruma doll can be traced back to the Futoo-o, a weighted doll designed to return to an upright position when knocked over. This concept was introduced to Japan during the Muromachi period, leading to the production of similar tumbling dolls known as kiagari-koboshi in the Kansai region and beyond. The Daruma, as it is known today, was developed during the Edo period. The design merged the image of Bodhidharma in deep meditation with the kiagari-koboshi, creating a symbol of resilience and perseverance.

It is said that kiagari-koboshi dolls were brought to Japan during the Edo period by the Obaku sect, a branch of Zen Buddhism with roots in China. These dolls were originally painted yellow, the color of a monk’s robe in India. However, in Japan, Daruma dolls are most commonly painted red, as since ancient times red has been associated with protection against evil. During the Heian period, noble residences and shrine torii gates were painted with cinnabar to prevent corrosion, and red soon became a significant color for celebratory clothing and rituals, believed to ward off illness and misfortune. Paintings of Bodhidharma from the Edo period onward often depict him in red robes, reinforcing this association.

White Daruma dolls were also made as lucky charms, and the combination of red and white was often used in auspicious settings. After the Showa era, Daruma dolls began to be produced in a wider variety of colors, including yellow, green, and gold, each carrying its own symbolic meaning.

Every year on January 6 and 7, the Shorinzan Daruma Market, or Daruma Ichi, is held, where thousands of Daruma dolls are sold. This festival is one of the biggest Daruma events in Japan, attracting merchants, tourists, and locals who buy a new Daruma for the year and return their old ones to be ceremonially burned in a Dharma-releasing fire ritual.

Don’t forget to draw Daruma omikuji and take a pic with the giant Daruma on the grounds!

How to Get to Shorinzan Darumaji

From Tokyo, take the Joetsu or Hokuriku Shinkansen to Takasaki Station, which takes about 50 minutes. From Takasaki Station, take a bus, which takes about 25 minutes, or a taxi, which takes about 15 minutes, to Shorinzan Darumaji. You can also take a local train to Gunma-Yawata Station and take a walk to take in the scenery.

Shorinzan Darumaji is more than just a temple. It is a cultural and spiritual symbol of resilience, luck, and goal-setting. Whether you are interested in folklore, history, or simply looking for an authentic Japanese experience, visiting the birthplace of the Daruma doll is a must for any traveler to Gunma.

Would you visit Shorinzan Darumaji? Let me know in the comments.