Himeji Castle, often referred to as the White Heron Castle due to its elegant, white exterior, stands as one of Japan’s most iconic and well-preserved castles. Located in Himeji City, Hyogo Prefecture, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is not only a marvel of Japanese architecture but also a treasure trove of history and folklore. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a lover of Japanese culture, or simply a traveler seeking beauty and serenity, Himeji Castle offers a unique and immersive experience that captures the essence of Japan’s rich past.
A History Steeped in Elegance
Himeji Castle was originally constructed in 1346, but the current structure was built in 1609 by the samurai lord Ikeda Terumasa during the Edo period. Known for its formidable design, the castle has stood the test of time, surviving natural disasters, warfare, and the ravages of history. Its pristine condition makes it a rare example of a feudal-era fortress, and it remains the largest and most spectacular surviving castle in Japan.
One of the standout features of Himeji Castle is its impressive layout. The castle complex consists of several interconnected buildings, defensive walls, and gates, all carefully designed to withstand attacks. The castle’s central keep, known as the “tenshu,” rises majestically above the surrounding landscape, offering panoramic views of Himeji City and beyond. Its unique white plaster walls are not only beautiful but also serve to protect the structure from fire.
A beloved sight in all seasons, I wanted to visit during cherry blossom seasons!
The Beginnings as Himeyama Castle
In 1333, during the Genko War, Akamatsu Norimura established a base at Shomyoji Temple on Mount Himeyama. His son, Akamatsu Sadanori, later moved the temple and built Himeyama Castle in 1346. In 1349, Sadanori moved to Shōyama Castle, with the Kodera clan serving as castellans. After the Akamatsu clan’s defeat in 1441, the Yamana clan took control of Harima Province. In 1458, Akamatsu Masanori restored the Akamatsu clan and recaptured Harima in 1467, beginning construction of Himeji Castle.
By 1469, Norimura moved to Okishio Castle to defend against the Yamana clan, and in 1491, Toyomochika’s son Masataka started building Gochaku Castle. In 1545, Kuroda Shigetaka expanded Gochaku Castle, marking the early stages of Himeji Castle’s development. In 1567, Takataka, the son of Mototaka, became the castle lord and successfully defended Himeji against a larger Akamatsu army in 1568. Takataka served until 1573.
Becoming Himeji Castle
In 1576, during the conflict between Oda Nobunaga’s forces and the Mori clan in Harima, Hashiba Hideyoshi emerged victorious, leading to the downfall of the Kodera clan, who supported the Mori. However, Kuroda Yoshitaka, a former vassal of the Kodera clan, continued to serve Hideyoshi. In 1577, Yoshitaka handed over Himeji Castle’s Honmaru to Hideyoshi, and moved to Ninomaru.
By 1580, Hideyoshi had pacified Harima, capturing Miki and Higashi Castles. He decided to make Himeji Castle his base, initiating major renovations to modernize the structure, including the addition of stone walls and a new castle tower. Hideyoshi also expanded the castle town and diverted the Sanyo Road to pass through it. In 1581, he held a large tea ceremony at the castle before marching to Tottori Castle.
In 1582, after defeating Akechi Mitsuhide and consolidating power in Japan, Hideyoshi moved to Osaka Castle in 1583, leaving Himeji Castle under the control of his brother, Toyotomi Hidenaga. However, in 1585, Hidenaga was reassigned to Yamato Koriyama, and Kinoshita Iesada took over the castle.
In 1600, after the Battle of Sekigahara, Ikeda Terumasa was given control of Harima Province, including Himeji. He began extensive renovations in 1601, aiming to expand the castle and its surrounding area, but the project was left incomplete due to his death and terrain challenges. Later, Honda Tadamasa completed the canal system that had been part of Terumasa’s plan. The construction involved tens of thousands of local workers, and several subsidiary castles, such as Akashi and Miki, were built to support Himeji Castle.
Fee for entering Himeji Castle currently stand at 1200 yen, and will be raised in 2026 for all non-residents of the city.
The Edo Period Changes
In 1617, after the Ikeda clan was transferred to the Tottori Domain, Honda Tadamasa was assigned to Himeji Castle with a fief of 150,000 koku. Tadamasa carried out major improvements, including remodeling the Imose River into the Senba River for boat transport and renovating the Nishinomaru. By 1618, the castle’s structure was nearly complete.
The samurai population within the castle grew over time, however the Himeji domain faced economic challenges due to the large burden of maintaining the castle, despite its 150,000 koku rice yield. The ruling family changed several times, including the Honda, Matsudaira, and Sakakibara clans. The Sakai family finally stabilized the position in 1749.
During the late Edo period, Himeji Castle was involved in the Battle of Toba-Fushimi. Sakai Tadatada, the castle lord, sided with the Tokugawa shogunate, making him an enemy of the imperial court. The castle was surrounded by 1,500 government soldiers, and a potential attack was imminent. However, Kitakaze Soemon Sadatada, a pro-imperial merchant, prevented the attack by donating 150,000 ryo to the government forces, leading to Himeji Castle’s surrender without a battle.
The Challenges of the Meiji Period
In 1869, after the return of the domain and people to the Emperor, Himeji Castle was nationalized. Initially, it was managed by the Ministry of War and later passed to the Ministry of the Army after the Ministry’s abolition in 1872. The castle was deemed to be in severe deterioration, and there were discussions about demolishing it. However, demolition was postponed after advice from Shijo Takatsugu during the Meiji Emperor’s tour.
In 1874, Himeji Castle was sold to the public, and Seiichiro Kobe of Himeji Yoneda-cho won the bid for 23 yen and 50 sen. There is debate over his intentions, with some suggesting that he planned to preserve the castle, while others believe he intended to sell its scrap materials. However, in the end, the Ministry of the Army took over ownership, and disputes regarding ownership continued until the statute of limitations expired.
Himeji Castle’s military usage began in 1874 with the establishment of the 10th Infantry Regiment around Sannomaru. Parts of the castle were demolished to make way for barracks. In subsequent years, additional military structures were built, such as the 10th Division Armory (1905-1913), which now serves as the Municipal Art Museum, and the 10th Division Commander’s Residence (1924), now the Junshinkai Headquarters.
In 1877, Army Major Asukai Masako submitted a petition for the repair of Himeji Castle, and in 1879, Colonel Nakamura Shigeto advocated for its preservation. This led to the official decision to preserve Himeji Castle alongside Nagoya Castle. Large-scale repairs were made in 1879, including reinforcing the main tower, and additional repairs were carried out in 1890.
However, despite these efforts, the castle continued to deteriorate, prompting citizens to form the Shirasagi Castle Preservation Promotion Association in 1908. Their efforts led to the Great Meiji Repairs in 1910-1911, which focused on restoring key parts of the castle, including the Main Keep, various towers, and gates, ensuring Himeji Castle’s survival for future generations.
Many visitors stop at the park, havng hanami under the trees with this beautiful view.
Through to the Modern Era
Following the Meiji Restoration, Himeji City began leasing parts of Himeji Castle that were not in use by the Army. This included areas like the Honmaru, Ninomaru, and parts of the Sannomaru grounds. These sections were developed into Himeyama Park, which opened to the public in August 1912, marking a new chapter for the castle under the Taisho era. In 1919, the Ministry of the Army repaired the Nishinomaru area, and by the early 1930s, significant changes were made to the surrounding landscape. The southern central moat was filled in and converted into a road, which is now National Route 2.
During the Showa era, Himeji Castle’s cultural importance grew significantly. In 1928, it was designated a historical site, and by 1931, several buildings, including the large and small castle towers, were designated as national treasures. However, the castle’s status as a national treasure was not officially recognized until the implementation of the Cultural Properties Protection Act in 1950. As Japan entered the 1940s, the looming threat of World War II brought new challenges to the castle’s preservation. In 1945, Himeji Castle, with its distinct white walls, became a target for bombing. To protect it, black camouflage netting was installed, and even though air raids devastated much of the surrounding town, the castle miraculously survived. Despite shells landing within its grounds and incendiary bombs hitting the main tower, the castle avoided major damage, much to the relief of the local people, who witnessed it standing strong amid the devastation.
The Showa era also saw extensive repairs to the castle, particularly after damage from heavy rains in 1934. These large-scale restorations, often referred to as the Showa Great Repairs, lasted from the mid-1930s until 1964, with the main tower undergoing significant work between 1956 and 1964. In addition to restoring the structure, efforts were made to correct the castle’s tilt, which had been a feature of local folklore. During this time, Sannomaru was transformed into a baseball stadium, hosting professional games starting in 1947, and the city began fostering international ties. In 1964, King Baudouin I of Belgium and his wife visited Himeji Castle, which helped solidify a sister-city relationship between Himeji and Charleroi, Belgium.
By the Heisei era, Himeji Castle’s international significance had been fully realized. In 1992, Japan ratified the World Heritage Convention, and Himeji Castle was nominated as one of the first properties to be included on the tentative list for World Heritage status. On December 11, 1993, it was officially registered as Japan’s first World Heritage site. This recognition sparked important discussions about the authenticity of cultural properties, leading to the creation of the Nara Document, which would influence future World Heritage registrations.
As part of the ongoing preservation efforts, the city implemented the Himeji Park Development Plan in 1976, turning the former Himeyama Housing Site into a park with an outdoor stage. Major repairs continued in the Heisei era, particularly on the main tower, with a comprehensive restoration plan carried out from 2009 to 2015, known as the Heisei major repairs. This period of restoration ensured that the castle would remain an enduring symbol of Japan’s cultural heritage.
Himeji Castle was given different names and nicknames throughout its long history.
A Castle of Many Names
The ancient name of the hill where Himeji Castle stands, Himeyama, was once known as Himeji Hill. This name is also mentioned in the Harima no Kuni Fudoki, where it is said to have originated from a myth. According to the tale, when the ship of Okuninushi no Mikoto was capsized by a storm caused by Hioaki no Mikoto, silkworms (himeko) washed ashore from the ship’s cargo. Over time, the name evolved from Himeji Hill to Himemichi and later to Himeji. Before the rediscovery of the Harima no Kuni Fudoki, it was believed that the name came from Prince Tato’s daughter, Tomihime.
Himeyama was also known by other names such as Sakuragiyama or Sagiyama due to the large number of cherry blossoms that bloomed there. In some references, the hill with the castle tower is called Himeyama, while the hill housing the Nishinomaru is known as Sagiyama. In the Man’yoshu (Volume 9, 1776), there is a poem that reads:
In the spring, when the cherry blossoms bloom on the peak of the mountain of absolute size, I will remember you.
Scholars like Inoue Michiyasu and Kaneko Motoomi believe this Tayuragi mountain refers to Himeyama. Historian Hashimoto Masatsugu, in his works History of Himeji Castle and History of Himeji City, argues that Zettousun should be interpreted as Sakuragi (cherry tree). On the other hand, Yoshida Kanehiko has suggested that Himeji could come from Himureji, meaning a village road that takes many days, describing a long journey to a distant village. He also proposes that Zettousunyama refers to Sagiyama, the hill where Nishinomaru is located, and that Tayuragi is a combination of Tayuhi (hand tying) and Raki (man of Sumeragi), signifying the leader of an ancient cooperative labor group.
Masatsugu Hashimoto presents four speculative theories regarding the origin of Himeji Castle’s nickname, Hakuro Castle. One theory suggests that it is because the castle is located on Mount Sagiyama. Another theory points to the beauty of the castle’s whitewashed walls, while a third claims it is named for the egrets that once lived in the area, such as night herons. A fourth theory contrasts Himeji Castle with Okayama Castle, known as Crow Castle due to its black walls, and suggests that the white walls of Himeji Castle earned it the nickname Hakuro Castle.
Hakuro Castle can also be read as Shirasagi Castle, a name referenced in a song by Murata Hideo, Shirasagi no Shiro (White Heron Castle). Hashimoto, however, rejects the reading Shirasagijo (the scholarly Chinese term) and asserts that Hakurojo is the correct name. Some sources, like the Nihon Rekishi Daijiten (Japanese History Encyclopedia), list both readings, while others, such as Nihonshi Jiten and Visual Wide Nihon Meijo Hyakusen, leave the reading ambiguous. Locally, Shirasagi Castle is commonly used, and it appears in the names of schools in Himeji, such as Shirasagi Elementary and Junior High School, and even in the school songs.
Himeji Castle is also known by several other nicknames. It is sometimes called The Uncontested Castle because, despite being surrounded by new government forces at the end of the Edo period and suffering direct hits from incendiary bombs during World War II, it has never been exposed to large-scale warfare or sustained significant damage since its construction. Another common nickname is White Phoenix, which is particularly well known due to the miraculous story of how the castle survived fire during the World War II air raids, inspiring local citizens to rebuild the city.
Visiting Himeji Castle
A visit to Himeji Castle offers an unforgettable experience, whether you’re a history buff, folklore enthusiast, or simply in search of a beautiful location to explore. The castle is easily accessible by train from major cities like Osaka, Kobe and Kyoto, making it a perfect day trip for travelers. With its stunning architecture, breathtaking views, and rich cultural significance, Himeji Castle is a must-see destination on any journey through Japan.
The second part, featuring construction details and folklore, will be available on April 15.
